Tretakoff Musings
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Dining Review: Boca
What is it about Marin? One of the highest concentrations of $ in the world, and yet the dining options are hardly commensurate. Sure, you have a few exceptions: Lark Creek Inn, Kitchen, Fork, but few others.
That may just starting to change. In the last year, several new restaurants have opened, and Novato seems to be the center of some of the best. Rickey's was one of the first. Then came Kitchen, with a flourish. Now, we discover Boca.
Now, I'm no talented foodie blogger, like the Restaurant Whore, but I think I need to share some of these places with the fellow Bay Areans, as well as Marinites. Boca is an Argentinean steak restaurant: think lots of great meat, with a plethora of sauces. The location is odd: it's in a part of Novato lacking any appeal and charm, and it seems completely out of place. It's definitely upscale, next to a nondescript office suite, and surrounded by gas stations, dry cleaners, and other daily necessities. Don't let that puzzle you too long: head in!
Inside is a treat: the architecture is evocative of a lodge, crossed with a Nordic/Arts & Crafts feel. Big, thick wood is everywhere, though all in light color. The place meanders: several large rooms and a sprawling, acres-wide deck, make for intimate dining with incredible capacity. Seating, even on a Saturday night, was a breeze; we made reservations with Open Table, but not sure we needed it. There is a full bar, and an impressive wine chiller, as you enter, but you are quickly whisked to your table, passing multiple handsome portraits of cattle (as if they are family members!) and a truly impressive dominating 8 Ft high wooden lattice, adorned with multi colored votives.
Ok, you're getting it: I like this place. Let's get down to business. First, the menu. Impressively diverse, there were literally dozens of choices for dinner, appetizers, and sides. Most were very reasonably priced, which was a surprise; about $20, on average. Of course, the menu featured at least 10 different beef dishes, but an equal amount of other choices, as well, and none of the obligatory ones you expect they have for the one person who wants something else: all excellent.
Ok, on to the food. How was it? Exquisite. Appetizers: Calimari, which was perfectly done, and plentiful for 4 people; Lobster Corn Dogs, which are a poor name for these treats. Picture a miniature corn dog, 1/4 the size, filled with lobster meat (no beef), and an amazing dipping sauce. Out of this world.
We had 2 different salads, Caesar & Butter Lettuce. Both were artful, fresh, and surprisingly full portioned; it belies their looks.
Main courses: Colorado Lamb Chops with a Pinot Noir-Blackberry sauce; a mixed grill of 2" thick pork chops, New York Strip brochettes, and lamb; and Argentinean Filet Mignon, grass fed. Every morsel was tender, flavorful, and sensational. The presentation was simple, with sides served on separate plates. Interestingly, this made you really taste the flavor, without diluting in an accompanying side (though I wish I ordered the creamed spinach!). Surprising the amount of meat: 3 out of the 4 or us finished our meals, but we were pretty full! There were four different sauces to garnish your meat, including chimiurri, smoked paprika, and Bernaise.
Service: pleasant, well paced, and not intrusive. Only demerit was they should have taken the menus away (and taken our order) before the appetizers were served. With smaller tables, it's hard to hold onto them while you are eating.
We brought a bottle of Ravenswood 2004 Zin, but also had a few bar drinks, and a couple more glasses of Cline Syrah. No dessert; we were stuffed. Total cost per person: about $55, sans tip. For all we ate and drank, that's a fair deal.
Conclusion: this is a keeper. The owner, and onetime chef, now tends bar on occasion. The staff is attentive and prompt. The place is great to look at, and the deck seems ideal for warm evenings. But the food is the star here: this is an Atkins dream, and a hearty and succulent choice. I'd give it 4 stars (out of 4), and I highly recommend you try it.
What is it about Marin? One of the highest concentrations of $ in the world, and yet the dining options are hardly commensurate. Sure, you have a few exceptions: Lark Creek Inn, Kitchen, Fork, but few others.
That may just starting to change. In the last year, several new restaurants have opened, and Novato seems to be the center of some of the best. Rickey's was one of the first. Then came Kitchen, with a flourish. Now, we discover Boca.
Now, I'm no talented foodie blogger, like the Restaurant Whore, but I think I need to share some of these places with the fellow Bay Areans, as well as Marinites. Boca is an Argentinean steak restaurant: think lots of great meat, with a plethora of sauces. The location is odd: it's in a part of Novato lacking any appeal and charm, and it seems completely out of place. It's definitely upscale, next to a nondescript office suite, and surrounded by gas stations, dry cleaners, and other daily necessities. Don't let that puzzle you too long: head in!
Inside is a treat: the architecture is evocative of a lodge, crossed with a Nordic/Arts & Crafts feel. Big, thick wood is everywhere, though all in light color. The place meanders: several large rooms and a sprawling, acres-wide deck, make for intimate dining with incredible capacity. Seating, even on a Saturday night, was a breeze; we made reservations with Open Table, but not sure we needed it. There is a full bar, and an impressive wine chiller, as you enter, but you are quickly whisked to your table, passing multiple handsome portraits of cattle (as if they are family members!) and a truly impressive dominating 8 Ft high wooden lattice, adorned with multi colored votives.
Ok, you're getting it: I like this place. Let's get down to business. First, the menu. Impressively diverse, there were literally dozens of choices for dinner, appetizers, and sides. Most were very reasonably priced, which was a surprise; about $20, on average. Of course, the menu featured at least 10 different beef dishes, but an equal amount of other choices, as well, and none of the obligatory ones you expect they have for the one person who wants something else: all excellent.
Ok, on to the food. How was it? Exquisite. Appetizers: Calimari, which was perfectly done, and plentiful for 4 people; Lobster Corn Dogs, which are a poor name for these treats. Picture a miniature corn dog, 1/4 the size, filled with lobster meat (no beef), and an amazing dipping sauce. Out of this world.
We had 2 different salads, Caesar & Butter Lettuce. Both were artful, fresh, and surprisingly full portioned; it belies their looks.
Main courses: Colorado Lamb Chops with a Pinot Noir-Blackberry sauce; a mixed grill of 2" thick pork chops, New York Strip brochettes, and lamb; and Argentinean Filet Mignon, grass fed. Every morsel was tender, flavorful, and sensational. The presentation was simple, with sides served on separate plates. Interestingly, this made you really taste the flavor, without diluting in an accompanying side (though I wish I ordered the creamed spinach!). Surprising the amount of meat: 3 out of the 4 or us finished our meals, but we were pretty full! There were four different sauces to garnish your meat, including chimiurri, smoked paprika, and Bernaise.
Service: pleasant, well paced, and not intrusive. Only demerit was they should have taken the menus away (and taken our order) before the appetizers were served. With smaller tables, it's hard to hold onto them while you are eating.
We brought a bottle of Ravenswood 2004 Zin, but also had a few bar drinks, and a couple more glasses of Cline Syrah. No dessert; we were stuffed. Total cost per person: about $55, sans tip. For all we ate and drank, that's a fair deal.
Conclusion: this is a keeper. The owner, and onetime chef, now tends bar on occasion. The staff is attentive and prompt. The place is great to look at, and the deck seems ideal for warm evenings. But the food is the star here: this is an Atkins dream, and a hearty and succulent choice. I'd give it 4 stars (out of 4), and I highly recommend you try it.
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