Tretakoff Musings
Sunday, August 20, 2006
  Dining Review - San Diego Edition: Dakota Grill

In the heart of the Gaslamp quarter, the Dakota Grill was one of several theme restaurants in the Cohn Restaurant Group's repertoire. Elegantly appointed, with the right mix of casual and class, the place was big, but not cavernous. Tinkling pianos came from the upstairs lounge, and we were seated on a Thursday night immediately.

First, the wine list. Nothing terribly remarkable, especially for a semi-chain in SoCal, but they did have a great option: flights! If you are not familiar with wine flights, buckle in. For a little more than the price of a single glass, a flight usually gives you a taste of three different wines, paired to let you really taste the difference. Usually, they are the same varietals, varied by year or vineyard, but Dakota offered a little different: irreverent pairings, titled "Red Red Wine" or "Sideways" and the like. I went for the Red Red Wine: Charles Krug Cabernet, a Zin from Paso Robles, and a blend from Alexander Valley.

Ok, the food: outstanding. The bread was freshly baked: sourdough and brown bread. Amy and Fenna shared the Peppercorn Crusted Ahi Tuna Salad, and both raved about it. I had the uniquely titled Pork Prime Rib, with apricot mustard glaze, green beans, and creamed spinach: unreal, and enormous portions. I wish I remembered what everyone else had, but I was lost in how good the food was, as well as the complexity of the wines. Got to pick up the Krug Cabernet, and stop talking down about central California Zins after that flight.

The cost was reasonable for what we ate. The only downsides? Parking is not easy or inexpensive, and there is a club downstairs: the entire floor was shaking in the later part of the evening, as the club started to get going. They explained they usually close off the area we were in on Thursday nights, but they were trying an experiment. Suffice it to say, ask for a table upstairs.



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