Tretakoff Musings
Monday, July 07, 2008
  David Burke dessert

A surprise complimentary dessert at Las Vegas' David Burke: gourmet cotton candy!

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Sunday, September 16, 2007
  A $50 Steak From A $5 One
A warning: Vegans, vegetarians, and folks who don't care for red meat, if the title of this post and the photo don't give it away, skip this one. The rest of you? Welcome to the world of food hacking. I'm not talking advanced chemistry here, but simple, easy ways to make your food taste better. And today, we're talking about one of the few foods I can actually cook: steak.

See that steak? You think you're looking at a $5 steak, covered in salt, right? Wrong. You are actually looking at the metamorphosis of a $5 steak into one that you'd weep with carnivorous joy at consuming in Morton's or Smith & Wollensky. Thanks to this amazing blog post, we are that much closer to beef heaven.

Fellow meat lovers, I share your joy at the treasure we are aboutto behold.The world...and the grill..will never be the same.

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Tuesday, January 02, 2007
  New Year's Eve
We welcomed 2007 with a cruise on the Bay, courtesy of Hornblower Cruises. A luxurious windowside seat, with a decadent 4 course dinner of Tiger Shrimp & Scallops, followed by duck, with a main of Filet Mignon, and a Cappuccino Napolean for dessert. Charles and Karen arranged the trip, and we had a wonderful time, punctuated by a great fireworks display and a Zino Mouton Cadet #3 on the cool deck air, as we passed under both the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges.

Lloyd and John turned us on to Hornblower, years ago, with the fabulous lunch cruises, and the dinner aboard the California Hornblower was absolutely memorable. A reserved table, open bar with premium selection, seated on the topmost Captain's Lounge, with a jazz duo playing 20 feet away, was just the way to start the new year off right!

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Sunday, December 31, 2006
  The Beauty In My Backyard
Having lived in the Bay Area for more than a decade now, I always appreciate it, but sometimes forget just how amazing every place can be. For instance, Christmas Eve Day was an overcast, cold (Northern California cold; all you Midwesterners, pipe down) kind of a day, perfect for a late breakfast to warm the bones. We headed out to try someplace new, the Lighthouse Café in Sausalito: I ride by it on my bike, daily, and it was always busy. Seems like a good sign.

**WARNING: Mini Dining Review ahead...skip down if you don't care (also will be posted on Yelp)**

The café is right on Bridgeway, the main approach to Sausalito, but before downtown. From the outside, it's kind of cool and kitschy, with a scaled down, two story lighthouse built in to the structure. Inside, small, with a long counter by the open grill, and several booths. Two people service the whole place, plus the cooks.

While the look of the place is classic working-class coffee shop, the food and prices are very definitely Sausalito. Nearly $40 for breakfast for two is ok once in a while, but the food here was not worth the price. Amy's pancakes looked like they'd been beaten down to prevent any fluffiness, and not quite finished; my 3 egg omelet, while good, was hardly worth the $10 menu price. Service was OK; they were pretty busy, and had their hands full. They also have a Scandinavian influence on the food, so it's good for any hardy Nordic types, hankering for a taste of the homeland.

Food: 3 stars
Price: 2 stars
Service: 3 stars
Overall: 2.5 stars

REVIEW DONE...on to other things.

Thus fortified, we headed for a drive. We decided to stay local, and headed out to the Headlands, by means of the greatest tunnel ever invented. If you've not had the chance to drive in the tunnel from Sausalito (Alexander Ave.) to the Headlands, make a point of doing so. It's one lane, so you wait on either end for 5 minutes for the traffic to clear before you can proceed. Once you get in, it's pure 1940's military: you can almost hear the jeeps roaring through. On the other side, you are transported instantly into a pristine wilderness; you'd have no idea that you are 10 minutes from San Francisco.

Most residents think the Headlands are where you take your out of town visitors for a great view of the Golden Gate: that road, right off 101 that snakes up to the top. True, but that's just the beginning of this national treasure: 9/10 more is open to hikers, riders, surfers, and casual drivers, and the Alexander Ave. tunnel is the best way to see it. You come in on the valley floor, with the cliffs of Hawk Hill on your left, and the ridge separating you from Tennessee Valley on the right. Broad, open plains, with meandering trails and brush are hung with fog from the nearby Pacific, and you drive through converted Army buildings, now turned to residences.

The Headlands Center for the Arts is here: Presidio-era buildings now converted for artists to have working studio space overlooking the serenity of the valley. A major horse boarding and jump-training facility catches your eye as you drive on. You reach a fork: turn right, and it's Armstrong Beach, a hidden gem for surfers and birdwatchers, open to the vast breakers of the Golden Gate. Turn left, and it's on to Point Bonita, with it's former batteries and classic early 1900's lighthouse. With the grey of the day, I snapped a quick picture, as the winds chilled around me.

From there, on to the lesser-traveled roads and the former Nike missile facility, now standing as a sentry over the Marine Mammal Center and the open ocean. A few roads more, and you are in the back roads of the Headlands Center, visiting an open Hostel and dodging fallen trees and startled deer.

We crossed out again through the tunnel, amusingly watching two cyclists waiting patiently for the light to turn, along with the cars (unbeknownst to them, the tunnel has dedicated bike lanes on either side). We came out on the other side, and did a short u-turn into Fort Baker. While still a working Coast Guard base, most of the classic buildings were abandoned with the Army, years ago, and now the Bay Area Discovery Museum is the biggest draw...but not for long. An investment group has purchased most of the grounds, and is now turning it into an ultra-chic resort. They are refurbishing all of the classic buildings as guest bungalows and adding to this wonderful setting.

Outside of Treasure Island, this area has some of the most stunning views of the city and bridge to be had; the picture to the right was snapped with my cameraphone from the secluded marina in Fort Baker, which I had never visited. Isolated, with the raw power of the surf held by a jetty, it's seconds away from the Golden Gate (as you can see), with a breathtaking view of the City's skyline. Yet, it feels like you are walking in some remote wilderness: an undiscovered gem in the midst of the dazzling Bridge and Sausalito downtown.

We finished our explorations by heading back to Sausalito proper, and visiting the twisted roads and hillsides that make the place so unique, complete with surprising apartment complexes and adorable cottages. Some coffee to fortify, and we headed home. The whole trip? Less than 10 miles from our doorstep.

Yep, it's a pretty nice way to spend a holiday: vacationing, in your own backyard.

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Saturday, December 23, 2006
  A bite from Toast Cafe
Toast Cafe in Mill Valley. My new favorite local comfort food!

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Sunday, December 17, 2006
  Dining Review: Umami, San Francisco
The Marina has a new contender for the art of Asian fusion, and it's name is Umami. The former Yoshida-Ya, famous for it's various meat skewers and vast seating is no more. Instead, the building has been gutted, redone, and become an edgy, dark fusion of ultra lounge and restaurant.

First, it's impossible to discuss this pace without commenting on décor. It's phenomenal: every detail has been paid attention to. Yes, it's very much on the dark side, but the rice paper wall paper, the rich cherry wood floors and tables and the subtle sandal wood accents are great. The place is more bar than restaurant, at least on the ground floor, and they favor high tables with some of the best stools ever made: woven leather seats, plentifully padded, and mounted on wrought iron stems with fantastic footpegs. Lots of small candles made the dark room alight with small intimate pools.

One other note, and a strange one for a dining review: the bathrooms. They have to be seen to be believed. Like the rest of Umami, they are dark beyond belief. Adding to the mystery is the piped in sounds of what seems to be a "how to learn Japanese" tape: voices, speaking a word or phrase in English, followed by another voice repeating it in Japanese. In a dark, small room, it's eerie. The sink, however, is worth the trip: looking like a long water-work piece of slate, it's just perfect to see.

Ok, enough of the odd stuff. The food is, as our server emphasized, not fusion. Instead, like Betelnut, it tries to offer key dishes from all Asian cultures. Sushi, Korean barbecue, Dim Sum, and Pho were all on the menu, as were other salads and appetizers. This is definitely an Asian tapas approach, and meant to have small dishes. We tried the Imperial Rolls, along with the chicken skewers and some sort of meatballs. The food was under whelming: most of the cooked pieces were either overcooked, too hot, or too spicy. The meatballs were the strangest ones: they tasted like no beef we had ever had, and the waiter later informed us it was a mix of pork and beef. Still, that flavor, not entirely pleasant, was not what we expected.

A few other notes:
- The tea was great, and they kept it coming. Genmai for me!
- The heat was out. Blew just after they opened, last week. It'll be at least a week until it's fixed, and it's COLD in there. Combined with the dark, and dining in your jacket/coat, it's not a good combo.
- The downstairs is MUCH more bar than restaurant: it's loud, crowded, and not my scene. Younger people might like it, though the lack of light would make it a challenge for singles scoping.
- The Sushi "bar" is three stools to the right as you walk in. It used to to be the coatroom in the old Yoshida-Ya. My advice is for them to chuck the bar, and put in some more seats, lounge style, for the clientèle they are aiming for.

Umami is no Yoshida-Ya, nor is it trying to be. They just opened, so maybe they'll work the kinks out, but it's definitely better as a bar right now. The money they poured into the place is clearly substantial; I hope on the trendy center of Union and Webster they get the clientèle to pay it off. For now, worth seeing, but not staying.

Food: 3 Stars
Service: 3 Stars
Ambience: 4 Stars
Overall: 3 Stars.

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Wednesday, December 13, 2006
  Dining Review: Noonan's Bar & Grill
This week, courtesy of Open Table, I had the chance to try Noonan's Bar & Grill in Larkspur. On the surface, sounds like a typical suburban eatery, but in Marin, things can be a bit different. First, the owner owns several popular brewpubs in the county, including Moylan's and the Marin Brewing Company; neither made a great impression on me, but they are popular among the younger crowd. Second, there's not really much of a singles scene in Marin, but Noonan's seems to have become one of the spots. Despite this, we headed over with trepidation on a Monday night.

The menu is surprisingly upscale for a bar & grill; average entree is $24. And the menu is quite unique. For instance, we started with a Trio of Mini Duck Burgers. Yes, you read that right: imagine three "sliders," but with the best duck meat fashioned into a patty, topped with delicious chutney and an impeccable golden egg bread bun. Yum! And the drink list? WOW. three pages of Vodka choices, four for tequilas, and the list goes on and on. No skimping on the wine or beer, either: this is a SERIOUS drinking establishment. I had a full and great Zin that, while not cheap, was all it was cracked up to be.

Ok, here's the secret for seafood lovers and Noonan's: Monday nights are the time to be there. Why? One simple reason: $24.95 all you can eat oysters. I'm not talking cheap, small oysters here; we're saying Tomales Bay 4-5" oysters per shell. They start you off with a dozen raw on the half shell with two scrumptious sauces. After you've managed to plow through those, here comes the real treat: 24 oysters, 6 of every kind. The best BBQ Oysters I have ever had; Oysters Rockefeller that are to die for; Oysters Casino that were easily one of my new favorites; and the underwhelming Oysters Noonan's, which purported to be a BBQ variant, but were actually tomato sauce. These oysters were on a par with Hog Island Oysters, and the plates kept coming. Remember: Monday night's, it's all you can eat. This is the best Oyster deal, ever.

Amy's Day Boat Scallops were sensational, and the service was friendly without obtrusiveness. Yes, the bill was $80 for the two of us, with drinks, but unlike other Marin dining, this was completely worth it. The best part? As we left the table, one of the waiters smiled kindly at me, and said, "See you next Monday?" Now THAT'S a local restaurant.

Food: 5 Stars
Service: 4.5 Stars
Ambience: 3.5 Stars (it's a bar and grill; dress it up, but it still is)
Overall: 4 stars.

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Monday, September 04, 2006
  Dining Review - Slanted Door
There is simply no better example of the quintessential San Francisco dining experience than Slanted Door. Named one of the Top 100 restaurants in the US, I was lucky enough to be introduced to this gem years ago, and I have been an addict ever since. They have moved several times, but their current location in the Ferry Building looks to be the last move. While I have eaten there on many wonderful occasions, I was lucky to head back there this last week, taking a client who was in from out of town. It occurred to me I never shared the amazing experience of a Slanted Door dinner with you!

Slanted Door is Vietnamese, but has evolved into something uniquely San Francisco. First, a word of warning: don’t try to have dinner here without reservations. It just can’t be done unless you come very early, or eat very late. Second, if you ignored my first words of advice, don’t be afraid of the bar: it's a full menu, and sometimes the service is even better, as well as more intimate dining. Lastly, as my dining guest this week commented, "I feel cool just BEING here!" Embrace the atmosphere. Yes, there's a DJ spinning dining music. Yes, everyone is in tight black T-shirts. Go with it.

We had reservations at 8:30, and we could not be seated sooner. We strolled around the Ferry Building, then waited in the lounge. They tried to get us in earlier, to no avail. Finally, we were seated in the main rear section: louder than I like, but a small price to pay. Service was perfect: he was there when we needed him, and invisible when we did not.

Ok, skip to the good stuff. Appetizers: Imperial Rolls: perfectly flaky, flavorful, and hot. Niman Ranch Beef Carpaccio with peanuts and lime sauce: incredible; it exploded with flavor in your mouth. Main Courses: Meyer Ranch shaking beef: cubed filet mignon with garlic, watercress and organic red onions - incredibly tender, yet so much flavor. Out of this world. The crispy five spiced Liberty Farm duck legs with braised baby carrots, turnips and yellow finn potatoes were all duck should be, with remarkable intensity of flavor. Even though the crab is not yet in season, the cellophane noodles with fresh Dungeness crab meat were amazing. Oh, did I mention the green beans? Worth eating on their own.

A glass of French Red kept me happy, and Amy and our guest split the Strawberry mousse napoleon for dessert. Yes, we had food to take home, and they did a nice trick: they cleared the plates before dessert, and brought us the remainder of our dinner to take home only after dessert had been finished. Nice!

You simply can’t go wrong with Slanted Door. Lunch is easier, and they even have their to go storefront in the main Ferry Building, Out The Door. But dinner, on the water with the twinkling of the Bay Bridge behind you, and the amazing food and service, is a treat unto itself.

* Service: 5 stars

* Food: 5 stars

* Ambience: 5 stars

* Overall: 5 stars

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Sunday, August 20, 2006
  Dining Review - San Diego Edition: Dakota Grill

In the heart of the Gaslamp quarter, the Dakota Grill was one of several theme restaurants in the Cohn Restaurant Group's repertoire. Elegantly appointed, with the right mix of casual and class, the place was big, but not cavernous. Tinkling pianos came from the upstairs lounge, and we were seated on a Thursday night immediately.

First, the wine list. Nothing terribly remarkable, especially for a semi-chain in SoCal, but they did have a great option: flights! If you are not familiar with wine flights, buckle in. For a little more than the price of a single glass, a flight usually gives you a taste of three different wines, paired to let you really taste the difference. Usually, they are the same varietals, varied by year or vineyard, but Dakota offered a little different: irreverent pairings, titled "Red Red Wine" or "Sideways" and the like. I went for the Red Red Wine: Charles Krug Cabernet, a Zin from Paso Robles, and a blend from Alexander Valley.

Ok, the food: outstanding. The bread was freshly baked: sourdough and brown bread. Amy and Fenna shared the Peppercorn Crusted Ahi Tuna Salad, and both raved about it. I had the uniquely titled Pork Prime Rib, with apricot mustard glaze, green beans, and creamed spinach: unreal, and enormous portions. I wish I remembered what everyone else had, but I was lost in how good the food was, as well as the complexity of the wines. Got to pick up the Krug Cabernet, and stop talking down about central California Zins after that flight.

The cost was reasonable for what we ate. The only downsides? Parking is not easy or inexpensive, and there is a club downstairs: the entire floor was shaking in the later part of the evening, as the club started to get going. They explained they usually close off the area we were in on Thursday nights, but they were trying an experiment. Suffice it to say, ask for a table upstairs.



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Sunday, August 06, 2006
  Dining Review: Boca

What is it about Marin? One of the highest concentrations of $ in the world, and yet the dining options are hardly commensurate. Sure, you have a few exceptions: Lark Creek Inn, Kitchen, Fork, but few others.

That may just starting to change. In the last year, several new restaurants have opened, and Novato seems to be the center of some of the best. Rickey's was one of the first. Then came Kitchen, with a flourish. Now, we discover Boca.

Now, I'm no talented foodie blogger, like the Restaurant Whore, but I think I need to share some of these places with the fellow Bay Areans, as well as Marinites. Boca is an Argentinean steak restaurant: think lots of great meat, with a plethora of sauces. The location is odd: it's in a part of Novato lacking any appeal and charm, and it seems completely out of place. It's definitely upscale, next to a nondescript office suite, and surrounded by gas stations, dry cleaners, and other daily necessities. Don't let that puzzle you too long: head in!

Inside is a treat: the architecture is evocative of a lodge, crossed with a Nordic/Arts & Crafts feel. Big, thick wood is everywhere, though all in light color. The place meanders: several large rooms and a sprawling, acres-wide deck, make for intimate dining with incredible capacity. Seating, even on a Saturday night, was a breeze; we made reservations with Open Table, but not sure we needed it. There is a full bar, and an impressive wine chiller, as you enter, but you are quickly whisked to your table, passing multiple handsome portraits of cattle (as if they are family members!) and a truly impressive dominating 8 Ft high wooden lattice, adorned with multi colored votives.

Ok, you're getting it: I like this place. Let's get down to business. First, the menu. Impressively diverse, there were literally dozens of choices for dinner, appetizers, and sides. Most were very reasonably priced, which was a surprise; about $20, on average. Of course, the menu featured at least 10 different beef dishes, but an equal amount of other choices, as well, and none of the obligatory ones you expect they have for the one person who wants something else: all excellent.

Ok, on to the food. How was it? Exquisite. Appetizers: Calimari, which was perfectly done, and plentiful for 4 people; Lobster Corn Dogs, which are a poor name for these treats. Picture a miniature corn dog, 1/4 the size, filled with lobster meat (no beef), and an amazing dipping sauce. Out of this world.

We had 2 different salads, Caesar & Butter Lettuce. Both were artful, fresh, and surprisingly full portioned; it belies their looks.

Main courses: Colorado Lamb Chops with a Pinot Noir-Blackberry sauce; a mixed grill of 2" thick pork chops, New York Strip brochettes, and lamb; and Argentinean Filet Mignon, grass fed. Every morsel was tender, flavorful, and sensational. The presentation was simple, with sides served on separate plates. Interestingly, this made you really taste the flavor, without diluting in an accompanying side (though I wish I ordered the creamed spinach!). Surprising the amount of meat: 3 out of the 4 or us finished our meals, but we were pretty full! There were four different sauces to garnish your meat, including chimiurri, smoked paprika, and Bernaise.

Service: pleasant, well paced, and not intrusive. Only demerit was they should have taken the menus away (and taken our order) before the appetizers were served. With smaller tables, it's hard to hold onto them while you are eating.

We brought a bottle of Ravenswood 2004 Zin, but also had a few bar drinks, and a couple more glasses of Cline Syrah. No dessert; we were stuffed. Total cost per person: about $55, sans tip. For all we ate and drank, that's a fair deal.

Conclusion: this is a keeper. The owner, and onetime chef, now tends bar on occasion. The staff is attentive and prompt. The place is great to look at, and the deck seems ideal for warm evenings. But the food is the star here: this is an Atkins dream, and a hearty and succulent choice. I'd give it 4 stars (out of 4), and I highly recommend you try it.

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